Round, oval, princess: which diamond shape is right?

Before we talk about the 4Cs, most people have already decided at first glance: that shape, yes. Or: that's not her. The cut shape is the first thing you see, and it defines the character of a ring more than any other decision.

The brilliant cut — the round diamond — is still the most popular. The reason is simple: no other cut reflects light as efficiently. It is optimised for maximum sparkle, which makes it timeless. It suits almost every setting and looks neither modern nor dated.

Fancy shapes is the collective term for everything that isn't round: oval, emerald, pear, marquise, cushion, princess (square). Each shape has its own character, and each looks different on the hand.

Oval has been the rising star in recent years, and for good reason: an oval looks larger per carat than a round stone because the elongated shape shows more surface area upward. It also optically lengthens the finger. And its sparkle is noticeably calmer than a brilliant, which many people prefer.

The emerald cut is the opposite of spectacle. It has step facets — open and calm, with little reflection and a lot of depth. An emerald shows the stone clearly and honestly, and that means it also shows inclusions more clearly. Whoever chooses this cut needs to be a little more generous with clarity.

On price there is a real difference: round diamonds cost more per carat than fancy shapes. The reason is the higher amount of rough wasted during cutting. An oval stone of equal quality and weight typically costs ten to twenty per cent less than a round one. That money can be reinvested in size or quality.

Which shape fits is partly a question of personality. Someone who wears things classically and quietly is often right with the brilliant. Someone who loves edges and strong characters reaches for the emerald. Someone who wants impact and efficiency looks at the oval. Bring us a photo of the jewellery she wears today — we can usually tell quite well what will suit her.