Diamond shapes
The Asscher cut engagement ring
An Asscher cut engagement ring is for people who love clean lines. The diamond is square with four bevelled corners, and from above you look into steps that sit inside each other like frames, getting smaller towards the centre. Many describe the effect as a hall of mirrors: you look into the stone, not just at it.
The cut dates back to the early 20th century and is closely tied to Art Deco. At our atelier in Zurich we show you how an Asscher looks in daylight, how it differs from the emerald cut and the princess, and why clarity should be the first thing you check with this cut.
Why an Asscher feels so distinctive
Depth instead of glitter
The concentric steps draw your eye into the middle of the stone. Instead of many small sparks you see broad flashes of light that travel from step to step as your hand moves.
Geometry with character
Square, but not severe: the bevelled corners give the Asscher an almost octagonal outline. It looks graphic and calm at once and suits clean, minimal settings.
A touch of Art Deco
The cut recalls the architecture and jewellery of the 1920s without feeling dated. If you like vintage but don't want a fussy ring, this is a very clear answer.
How an Asscher is built
The Asscher is a step cut, just like the emerald cut. Its facets run parallel to the outline and descend in steps towards the centre. A well-cut Asscher shows a pattern from above that looks like an X or the sails of a windmill. When that pattern is crisp and even, depth and symmetry are usually right.
Because the facets are large and open, an Asscher forgives very little. Inclusions that a brilliant hides with its many small facets sit here as if behind a window. That's why we usually recommend VS2 clarity or better, ideally VS1, and would rather save a step on colour. We explain the clarity grades in detail in our guide.
Asscher, emerald cut or princess?
Three angular cuts, three very different looks. This overview helps with a first comparison.
| Feature | Asscher | Emerald cut | Princess |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shape | Square, bevelled corners | Rectangular, bevelled corners | Square, sharp corners |
| Faceting | Step cut, steps towards the centre | Step cut, long steps | Brilliant-style, many facets |
| Light | Deep, like a hall of mirrors | Calm, broad flashes | Lively sparkle |
| Visible inclusions | Clearly, clarity matters | Clearly, clarity matters | Less, facets conceal |
| On the finger | Compact, graphic, vintage feel | Elongates the finger | Modern, crisp |
The bevelled corners of an Asscher are better protected than the sharp corners of a princess.
How an Asscher looks on the hand
On the finger an Asscher looks more compact than an emerald cut of the same weight, because it doesn't stretch lengthwise. In return it has a presence few other cuts match: clear, symmetrical, almost architectural. Platinum or white gold underline its cool geometry, yellow gold gives it a warm, historic note.
For the setting we suggest restraint. Four prongs placed exactly on the bevelled corners hold the stone securely and leave the steps open. If you want it even calmer, a fine bezel all around works well. A slim halo is possible, but often takes away some of the Asscher's strict beauty. We show you both options as renderings before anything is made.
Explore related cuts
We're happy to show you Asscher stones in person at the atelier. These closely related cuts help with the comparison.
What an Asscher engagement ring costs
A guide price like for the solitaire: from CHF 1'900 applies to a complete ring with a 1 ct lab-grown round brilliant. The Asscher cut can shift the price slightly, and we break down every stone openly.
Slightly different with an Asscher, depending on the stone
Price depends on the work involved. We calculate openly, no surprises.
Guide prices, as of 2026, incl. VAT. The exact price depends on stone, metal and work.
Frequently asked questions
Both are step cuts with bevelled corners. The emerald cut is rectangular and elongates the finger, the Asscher is square and looks more compact. With its higher crown and square shape, the Asscher shows more of the depth effect many call a hall of mirrors. The best way to decide is to compare both side by side.
Both are square, but faceted completely differently. The princess sparkles like a brilliant and has sharp corners. The Asscher shows calm, broad flashes of light and has protected, bevelled corners. If you love glitter, go for the princess. If you're after clarity and depth, you'll love the Asscher.
Because the open steps show inclusions clearly, we usually recommend VS2 or better, and VS1 for larger stones. What matters is that you can't see anything with the naked eye. We check every stone under the loupe together with you and tell you where you can save and where you shouldn't.
At the same weight an Asscher often looks a little smaller from above, because more weight sits in the depth. In return its clear outline gives it a strong presence. If you want more visible surface, you can choose a touch more carat or consider an emerald cut. We show you the difference on your finger.
Yes, lab-grown diamonds come in practically every cut, including the Asscher. Chemically and optically they are real diamonds, with an IGI certificate. The difference lies in price and origin. We show you both options and explain openly what makes more sense for you.
Four prongs on the bevelled corners are the classic choice: secure, light and with an open view of the steps. A bezel setting encloses the stone completely and makes sense if you work a lot with your hands. Both options suit the geometry of the Asscher well.
Quick enquiry
Drawn to the Asscher?
Tell us what appeals to you about this cut. We'll find suitable stones, show you the comparison with emerald and princess cuts and suggest an appointment, in Zurich or by video.